Chongqing hot glass noodle broth

One can’t consider chillies without visiting Sichuan, China’s spiciest region. It was here that the fruits first blazed into the country having crossed over the Himalayas, and here where they are used most keenly, combined with the piquancy of native Sichuan peppercorns.

‘Suan la fen’, CHINA

This lip-puckering hot-and-sour broth comes from the city of Chongqing, also famous for eye-wateringly fiery hotpots. Sweet potato noodles are made fresh by Sichuanese vendors, who pass batter through sieve-like holes directly into boiling water, but can be bought dried in Chinese supermarkets. Seek them out for their glorious, slippery transparency, which makes an agreeable contrast to the riot of crunchy toppings.

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS

• 250g (9oz) sweet potato noodles
• 350ml (scant 1½ cups) unsalted vegetable or chicken stock

For the seasoning

• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons Chinese chilli oil, plus 1 tablespoon sediment
• 2 tablespoons chinkiang black vinegar
• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
• ½ teaspoon roasted, ground Sichuan pepper

For the toppings

• 1 tablespoon neutral oil
• 2 tablespoons raw red-skinned peanuts
• 1 spring onion (scallion), sliced
• 1/3 celery stalk, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons zhaicai (pickled mustard stems), chopped
• Small handful coriander (cilantro) leaves

METHOD

1. Cook the sweet potato noodles following packet instructions. It may suggest pre-soaking overnight, but this can be fast-tracked to a few minutes using warm water, if needed. When tender and slippery, drain and rinse. Set aside.
2. Prepare your toppings. Heat a wok over medium–high heat, add a slug of oil and when shimmering, add the peanuts.
   Stir-fry for 30 seconds, then reduce the heat to low and continue to fry, stirring often, until the nuts are a deep golden brown.
   Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
3. Divide the seasonings between two serving bowls. Heat up the stock and pour half in each, stirring to mix. Add the noodles.
4. Sprinkle the toppings over and eat at once.

This is an edited text and image extract from The Nutmeg Trail by Eleanor Ford, photography by Ola O. Smit. Published by Murdoch Books, RRP $49.99.

This article was originally published in Issue 29 – Flights of Fancy. You can purchase this issue and enjoy more enchanting content here.